When visiting family, friends and neighbors do you struggle with the fact that their homes aren’t easily accessible? Wouldn’t it be nice if they were? Well they can be. There is a solution. Portable mobility ramps allow you to take your mobility with you. Portable mobility ramps fold, telescope and roll up small enough to fit in your vehicle. Their compact, lightweight design makes it easy to be on the go.

They come in different configurations to handle different jobs so the first thing you must do is to decide what obstacles you’re most likely to encounter. Is it a threshold, a small step or curb, multiple steps? Since these ramps are portable they have their limitations as to how long they can be. The most important piece of information you need to know is how much of a rise are you likely to face? Remember, for every inch of rise you will want a foot of ramp length. This gives us a 1:12 slope.

It also depends on what type of mobility device you use. If you are using a manual wheelchair, you probably will want to stick with the 1:12 slope or preferably less depending on you upper body strength. You can probably get away with a slope of 1:8, if you have someone pushing you to be sure you don’t tip backwards. This of course depends on how much you weigh and the size and condition of the person assisting you. If you use an electric wheelchair or scooter then a slope of 1:8 should be fine.  I recommend you stay under a slope of 1:8 and as always, you should use the longest ramp you have room for.

Below is a chart to help you choose what length of ramp you will need. The column on the left shows the rise in inches. The row on the bottom shows the length of the ramp. Lets say that you predict that you shouldn’t need to go more than 6 inches in rise. Starting with the 6 on the left, go across until you come upon a green cell. Following that cell downwards you see that you need a 6 foot ramp to achieve the 1:12 slope. Also notice the yellow cells. With a 6 foot ramp you could go as high as 9 inches with some assistance.

“Well,” you say, “I go to my son’s house and there is only enough room for a 4 foot ramp.” If that is the case then you can easily bridge a 4 inch rise no problem and 6 inches with some help. It’s just like a stop light. Green is good, yellow means get some help, and red means consider something else. This is just a guide to help you get an idea of what size ramp will fit your needs. Use your common sense and good judgment. After all, you know what your abilities are. If you need another way to calculate all of this, you can check out our new mobility ramp calculator!

Now that you have a ramp length in mind let’s look at the different kinds of portable mobility ramps. There are many styles to choose from based on your needs.

Theshold Mobility Ramps – These ramps are for what the name implies, crossing thresholds! They are purchased based on a given rise (between 1/4 inch to 6 inches) and have the slope built in to them. These are the least expensive of all the mobility ramps and can be made from a variety of materials. If the rise isn’t going to vary these are ideal.

Suitcase Mobility Ramps – These ramps are single fold ramps that fold down the middle. They have a handle on the side so that they can be carried like a suitcase. Weight capacity is between 600 and 800 pounds and they weigh only 10 to 20 pounds depending on the model. Lengths are between 2 feet and 6 feet.

Multi-fold Mobility Ramps – These ramps are excellent for getting your mobility device in and out of vans or SUVs. They can also be used to span a series of steps. Lengths are between 5 feet and 10 feet. Weight capacity is usually 800 pounds and they weigh 40 to 70 pounds depending on the length. These ramps fold into quarters.

Telescoping Mobility Ramps – As the name suggests, telescoping mobility ramps extend and lock into place. They are a two track design and can be used for vans, steps, and curbs. These ramps are the lightest and most compact and some come with a carrying case. These will usually extend from 3 feet, to 5 feet, to 7 feet in length.

Roll-up Mobility Ramps – These ramps are also in the two track design and roll up for easy carrying. A carrying strap or case usually comes with these ramps. They too are lightweight and compact yet are incredibly strong. Some have a weight capacity of 2000 pounds! You can use them to get in your vehicle and then at your destination. The track lengths can be 3 to 13 feet long.

The folding ramps are usually are 29 to 30 inches wide. Make sure that is wide enough for your mobility device. The telescoping and roll-up mobility ramps are two-track design so you set the width. They all come with non-slip surfaces either in the form of grip-tape or extruded into the ramp’s surface. Be sure to check out the weight capacities on any ramp you are considering. They are not all the same.

Well there you have it! I hope you are now armed with the knowledge you need to make an informed decision about what portable mobility ramps are for you. Happy trails!

Considering adding a mobility ramp to an existing structure? It may be a something you can do yourself. With some simple carpentry skills you can build a safe, sturdy ramp that will last for years to come. Mobility ramps allow people with disabilities to access places they otherwise could not access. The ADA (Americans with Disability Act) has set forth guidelines that standardize the building of mobility ramps thus making them safe for those that use wheelchairs, scooters or walkers. Poorly constructed mobility ramps create a hazard that could result in a lawsuit.

Lets get started.

The first thing to consider is how much rise are you trying to traverse. Measure from the ground up to the surface you are trying to get to. The ADA recommends that the slope of a ramp should have a slope of at least 1:12. 12 feet of ramp for every 1 foot of rise. For our purposes of discussion we will use a rise of 3 feet. At a slope of 12:1, our ramp must be 36 feet long. This is not practical because the ADA also states that most people cannot manage a slope of 1:12 for more than 30 feet. They recommend a slope of 1:16 to 1:20. Our ramp will have a slope of 1:16 but you should use the least amount of slope you have room for. Lets break it into sections. If we have two sections rising 1 1/2 feet running parallel to the front of our structure it will look better and take up less space. Now our ramps will only need to be 24 feet long (Total rise [3 feet] X Amount of slope [16] ÷ Number of sections [2] ). There will be a landing at the top and bottom of our ramps and at the 180 degree turn. If 24 feet is too long for your application consider 2 turns(3 sections) at 16 feet each with a rise of 1 foot. The width of each ramp should be 36 inches minimum with no obstructions per the ADA. Try our new mobility ramp calculator!

Now that we have a general design in mind and some dimensions to go along with it, we will take a look at materials. Mobility ramps can be constructed wood, steel, concrete or aluminum. Lets consider the pros and cons of each.

Aluminum:
Pros – Strong, lightweight, and is resistant to corrosion.
Cons – Flexes and bends depending on the thickness, expensive.

If you want a ramp constructed out of aluminum, think about purchasing one of the many fine kits that are available. The floors are extruded to have a non-slip surface already on them. They bolt together easily and can be re-configured or added on to with little fuss. Since the companies that sell these kits buy their aluminum in bulk, you can probably buy an aluminum ramp cheaper than you can build one.

Concrete:
Pros – Strong, permanent and non-slip if the surface is scored or brushed.
Cons – Expensive, need the proper skills.

Galvanized Steel:
Pros – Strong, easy to work with.
Cons – Will eventually rust, heavy.

Wood:
It’s hard to think of wood in terms of pros and cons. The cost, durability and maintenance is directly related to type of wood you select and how it is weather-proofed. Pressure treated lumber is highly recommended. It lasts a long time but it is more expensive. The same goes for hardwoods. The more you spend now, the less maintenance you will do later. Whatever wood you choose there are some things you will need to consider.

Wood must be protected with a sealer, varnish or stain to prevent rotting and warping even where surfaces touch. You may need to apply some non-slip grip tape, to provide traction on the walking surface. Boards must be placed close enough together to prevent unwanted bumps but also be spaced far enough apart to allow water to drain off the surfaces. Boards on the walking surface should be perpendicular to the direction of travel. Plywood is likely to warp and separate and it is slippery. It’s cheaper, but you will be replacing it in no time at all. Wooden handrails must be kept in splinter free condition and tend to bow over time. Don’t use nails. Nails work their way back out causing boards to loosen. Nails that are sticking up are a tripping hazard as well. Long wood screws with a little wood glue on the threads will stay in better. Use 2 by 6’s for the frame and joists. Posts should be 4 by 4’s with 2 by 4’s as the cross-members in a crisscross manner, to prevent side to side movement. A pad made out of pressure treated lumber to go between the post and the ground will help keep things dry. Posts that are to be placed into the ground should be rated as such.

Galvanized steel pipe is my choice for handrails especially when painted to keep from rusting. They must have 1 1/2 inches or more of clearance around them and they cannot rotate in their fittings. The top of the gripping surface should be 34 to 38 inches above and parallel the ramps surface.

After figuring up all the costs you will probably find that building a wooden ramp yourself is the cheapest way to go. Just remember that you must be willing and have the ability to maintain it or it will be money down the drain.

Build your mobility ramp in sections. There must be a level landing at the top and bottom of each run. The landing must be at least as wide as the ramp run leading to it and at least 60 inches long. Where the ramp changes directions, the landing must be a minimum of 60 inches by 60 inches. Start at the top. Put in the posts and cross-members and secure the top landing to them using bolts and the existing surface.  How you do this will depend on what the surface you’re connecting to is constructed of. Next, put in the posts and cross-members for the run between the top landing and the middle landing. Remember to check your slope! Now, do the same for your middle landing and then to the ground. Make sure there is a smooth transition where the ramps and landings meet. Otherwise, someone could tip over forwards or backwards depending on which direction they are traveling. This is especially true where the ramp meets the ground surface. At this point of the ramp I would install a small ramp with a slope of 1:20 or greater.

I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to familiarize yourself with ADA guidelines. Read them and know them before getting started on your project. A few moments of your time now will save many headaches down the road.

Also, check with your local building code office to make sure that you comply with any guidelines they have as well. If you need a building permit, you’ll need to know that upfront. To help you find who you need to talk to, click here.

The intent of this article is not to be a “How To” document. The amount of material needed to be stated is beyond the scope of this article. It is intended to give you some idea of what is involved in such a project. After all, this website is dedicated to helping you make an informed decision about mobility ramps. Now that you have some idea of how to build your own ramp and what it entails, I’m going to give you a little more information to digest. As I was researching this article, I ran across this video (below). It is an excerpt from a DVD put out by “The Minnesota Ramp Project”. In this video, a building inspector mentions a manual published by “The Minnesota Ramp Project”. I have attached a link to the web version of this manual here. On their website they also offer the up to date version of this manual and the DVD for sale. The manual leads you through the entire process, from design, permits, and materials through construction and installation. It is great for family and friends, experienced builders, and community service groups. On the DVD, see important design and safety information, hear first-person accounts from ramp users, obtain perspectives from building officials, and get many helpful construction tips. The manual sells for $15 and the DVD sells for $20.Their website also has many articles and information on how you may get some help with funding. Enjoy the video!

As we grow older, mobility starts to become a thing of the past. Whether its due to the aging process or because of injuries or illnesses we’ve sustained over the course of our lives, we just don’t get around the way we used to. Now it sounds like I’m talking just about the elderly here, I’m not. Disability is something that happens to young and old alike and to varying degrees. The reasons why we no longer have the mobility we used to are irrelevant. The challenge has been handed to us and we must do something about it in order to live our lives with as little assistance as possible. There are some simple and inexpensive things you can do (or have someone do for you) to make life easier and safer.

1) One of the easiest things you can do is to have someone move the things you need the most throughout the day down lower. Make a list. Note the things you have trouble getting to on a daily basis and create a new space for them. Get a quality grabbing device for the things that are harder to reach.

2) Install better lighting. Replacing low wattage light bulbs with brighter more efficient fluorescent bulbs can bring things into view. Those who use canes or walkers especially need to be able to see any obstacles that are in their way. If there are not enough fixtures or lamps to sufficiently light pathways, install them. They are a inexpensive way to keep accidents from happening.

3) If you use a walker, there are some accessories you can purchase to help keep your hands where they should be, on the grips. Trays for meals, clip-on cup holders and item bags that hang from the crossbar, let you take things with you without dropping them. If something does get dropped, use that gripping device I spoke of earlier. Bending down cannot only be painful, but could cause you to lose your balance.

4) Get a medical alert button. Should something happen, chances are you will need some assistance immediately. You may not be able to get to a phone to call for help. These devices are used for all kinds of emergencies. With a simple press of a button you can summon police, firemen or paramedics. Peace of mind is a wonderful thing to have.

5) Replace the doorknobs in your home with lever type handles. Round doorknobs require you to grip and twist the knob in order to open the door. If that process is difficult or painful for you then lever type handles will be much easier. Simply place your hand on the lever and pull down. Usually just the weight of your hand is enough to activate these devices.

6) Pulling a door open is no easy task when you are using a mobility device. Unless you can get off to the side of the door, you will have to get out of its way. Pushing it open is much easier. Install hinges that swing both ways and keep the areas on both sides of the door clear of obstructions. They can be spring loaded to close the door behind you and when pushed all the way open, stay open. If choose to use these hinges make sure the spring tension is not so strong as to try to push you backwards or to cause you to lose your balance. Also, if you want the door to open both ways some modifications may be necessary to the door jamb to allow this.

7) Install a higher toilet or get an elevated seat. Even if you are temporarily disabled, say from having surgery, you will really appreciate the elevated seat. Sitting down is one thing, getting back up is a another! These seats straddle over the toilet and are adjustable in height. They are easily moved out of the way for family members that don’t require them.

8) Speaking of seats, get one for the shower too. The shower seat sits in your shower or tub and allows you to sit instead of standing. They too are adjustable in height and in conjunction with a hand-held shower head makes personal hygiene a lot easier and safer.

9) A hand-held faucet for the kitchen allows you to fill things up without holding them over or setting them in the sink. Say for instance you need a pitcher of water, it’s easier to fill it up while it’s on the counter than to lift it out of the sink. They also make cleaning the sink or rinsing dishes much easier. These faucets come in different styles and lengths and some have filters built in.

10) Grab bars can be installed just about anywhere. In the bath or shower, by the toilet, (remember that getting up part?) or by your bed for getting in and out of it. Any place you need to get up or down, in or out, or just to have something to hold on to so you can steady yourself, grab bars are the ticket. Make sure they are installed properly. Improper mounting can cause accidents. These devices are meant to be pulled on sometimes with a lot of force. They will not do you any good if they pull out of the surface they are mounted to.

11) If you use a wheelchair or scooter, mobility ramps are a big help. There are many kinds to choose from based on what your needs are. Most are made of aluminum but you can build your own out of wood. If you want to build your own, they need to have the right slope and smooth transitions. Use the guidelines set forth by the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act). If you want to view this document, click here. Remember that wooden ramps require more maintenance to keep them in a safe working condition. If you have the time and ability to maintain them they are one way to cut costs.

12) Chair lifts assist you in getting out of a chair. Some are cushions that can be used with a variety of chairs and others are chairs that have the lift built-in. These come in a multitude of designs, styles and prices. Shop around to make sure you get the one that best meets your needs.

These are just some of the things you can do to make your home easier and safer to live in. There are many more. Widen doorways to at least 36 inches to allow wheelchairs to pass through. Lower counter tops and cabinets. Install zero threshold tubs and showers. Install stair-lifts or elevators in homes with more than one story. Enlarging bathrooms to allow you to turn your wheelchair around. Install bathroom sinks that have room for a wheelchair to fit under. These things will cost more money and require someone who is good at remodeling, preferably a licensed contractor.

If you need to have these things done there is help. Grants are available if you know where to look. Do your research but be careful! There are many scams as well. If you purchase something to help you in this endeavor, use a pre-paid debit card. If something cost $10, get a card with $10 on it. Some companies will sell things ridiculously cheap and then start charging you a monthly membership fee without you even knowing it. If you want to pay the membership fee, simply put more money on the card every month. That way, when you want to cancel it, it will be canceled.

Installing mobility ramps in your household is not just a matter of freedom and convenience but also of safety. Selecting the correct mobility ramp will not only save you pain, but also the pain of buying something that does not meet your needs. When purchasing mobility ramps for your home, ask yourself these questions:

Do I need to get a building permit?
Before you buy a mobility ramp, check to see if you will need a local building permit. Some areas may want you to apply for a permit in order to verify the ramp conforms to your local building codes.

Am I going to use the ramp inside or outside of my home?
Exterior ramps need to be weather-proof. Consider the climate you live in. Do you live in the colder regions? If so you will need a mobility ramp that has a good non-slip surface and is not prone to icing. If you live in the desert you will need a ramp that will hold up to high heat and ultraviolet rays.

How long of a mobility ramp should I purchase?
Many people are surprised to learn how long a mobility ramp needs to be. 1:12 is the recommended ratio for a mobility ramp. This means for every inch of rise there should be 12 inches in length. If you are using a manual wheelchair you should probably use a ratio of 1:20. This is especially true if the ramp is for an elderly person. You should always use the longest ramp you have room for. Never go steeper than a ratio of 1:8. A steep ramp is hard to manage and there is a possibility of tipping backwards. Any ramp with a rise of 6 inches or more should have hand rails. Try our new mobility ramp calculator!

Do I need a mobility ramp that’s permanent?
Permanent ramps are usually made of concrete. They last forever, but they can be very expensive. They can also be made from galvanized steel or wood. Ramps made of these materials require a higher degree of maintenance.

What if I want to move the mobility ramp later or re-configure it ?
Semi-permanent ramps are also called modular mobility ramps. They are usually made from aluminum and are an attractive, flexible, easy to assemble alternative to permanent mobility ramps. Little or no site preparation is required and because of its modular design, these aluminum mobility ramps are perfect for when it is desirable to have a ramp where portable ramps are not sufficient enough to meet your accessibility needs. The modular mobility ramps design makes this system easily expandable because all of the sections are interchangeable. They can be moved and re-configured by adding 45, 90 and 180 degree turns with landing areas depending on your needs. They are easy to install and remove and can store in a very small space.

What are the weight specifications I need?
Some ramps are designed for manual wheelchairs, some for electric wheelchairs, some for unoccupied wheelchairs and others for occupied wheelchairs and scooters. Be sure to check the weight specifications of the ramp you intend to purchase. Make sure that it will safely support how you intend to use it. Many times, people buy the inexpensive wheelchair ramps, only to find out that they were designed for unoccupied wheelchairs.

I found this video while researching this article. It shows good and bad layouts of  mobility ramps. The quality is a little sketchy but it makes a lot of good points. I hope you find it useful.

Passed in 1990, the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act) is a federal civil rights law that prohibits discrimination against people with disabilities in everyday activities. The following specs for mobility ramps are published ADA Accessibility Guidelines as amended through September 2002. To see the entire document click here.

General. Any part of an accessible route with a slope greater than 1:20 shall be considered a ramp. Ramps are essential for wheelchair users if elevators or lifts are not available to connect different levels. However, some people who use walking aids have difficulty with ramps and prefer stairs.

Slope and Rise. The least possible slope shall be used for any ramp. The maximum slope of a ramp in new construction shall be 1:12. The maximum rise for any run shall be 30 in (760 mm). Curb ramps and ramps to be constructed on existing sites or in existing buildings or facilities may have different slopes and rises if space limitations prohibit the use of a 1:12 slope or less. These allowable differences are as follows:

(1) A slope between 1:10 and 1:12 is allowed for a maximum rise of 6 inches (150 mm).

(2) A slope between 1:8 and 1:10 is allowed for a maximum rise of 3 inches (75 mm). A slope steeper than 1:8 is not allowed. Ramp slopes between 1:16 and 1:20 are preferred. The ability to manage an incline is related to both its slope and its length. Wheelchair users with disabilities affecting their arms or with low stamina have serious difficulty using inclines. Most ambulatory people and most people who use wheelchairs can manage a slope of 1:16. Many people cannot manage a slope of 1:12 for 30 ft (9 m). Try our new mobility ramp calculator!

Clear Width. The minimum clear width of a ramp shall be 36 in (915 mm).

Landings. Ramps shall have level landings at bottom and top of each ramp and each ramp run. Landings shall have the following features:

(1) The landing shall be at least as wide as the ramp run leading to it.

(2) The landing length shall be a minimum of 60 in (1525 mm) clear.

(3) If ramps change direction at landings, the minimum landing size shall be 60 in by 60 in. (1525 mm by 1525 mm).
Level landings are essential toward maintaining an aggregate slope that complies with these guidelines. A ramp landing that is not level causes individuals using wheelchairs to tip backward or bottom out when the ramp is approached.

Handrails. If a ramp run has a rise greater than 6 in (150 mm) or a horizontal projection greater than 72 in (1830 mm), then it shall have handrails on both sides. Handrails are not required on curb ramps or adjacent to seating in assembly areas. Handrails shall have the following features:

(1) Handrails shall be provided along both sides of ramp segments. The inside handrail on switchback or dogleg ramps shall always be continuous.

(2) If handrails are not continuous, they shall extend at least 12 in (305 mm) beyond the top and bottom of the ramp segment and shall be parallel with the floor or ground surface.

(3) The clear space between the handrail and the wall shall be 1 – 1/2 in (38 mm).

(4) Gripping surfaces shall be continuous.

(5) Top of handrail gripping surfaces shall be mounted between 34 in and 38 in (865 mm and 965 mm) above ramp surfaces.

(6) Ends of handrails shall be either rounded or returned smoothly to floor, wall, or post.

(7) Handrails shall not rotate within their fittings.

The requirements for stair and ramp handrails in this guideline are for adults. When children are principal users in a building or facility (e.g. elementary schools), a second set of handrails at an appropriate height can assist them and aid in preventing accidents. A maximum height of 28 inches measured to the top of the gripping surface from the ramp surface or stair nosing is recommended for handrails designed for children. Sufficient vertical clearance between upper and lower handrails (9 inches minimum) should be provided to help prevent entrapment.

Cross Slope and Surfaces. The cross slope of ramp surfaces shall be no greater than 1:50.

Edge Protection. Ramps and landings with drop-offs shall have curbs, walls, railings, or projecting surfaces that prevent people from slipping off the ramp. Curbs shall be a minimum of 2 in (50 mm) high.

Outdoor Conditions. Outdoor ramps and their approaches shall be designed so that water will not accumulate on walking surfaces.

Architecturally designed for a clean, modern appearance, aluminum modular mobility ramps are designed as an attractive, flexible, easy to assemble alternative to permanent galvanized steel ramps or old fashioned wooden ramps. Little or no site preparation is required and because of its modular design, these aluminum mobility ramps are perfect for when it is desirable to have a semi-permanent ramp where accessibility needs extend beyond the scope of portable ramps for wheelchairs, scooters and more.

Before you purchase one, check with your insurance company as they may be  reimbursable as “Durable Medical Equipment”. Also, check whether or not you will need a building permit. Some cities may require you to obtain a permit in order to verify the ramp conforms to your local building codes.

Made from a non-slip, non-rusting, non-rotting, all aluminum extruded surface, modular mobility ramps provide excellent footing and traction to ensure safety. Hand rails are recommended for all mobility ramps with rises over 6″ in height and are sold separately. They can be purchased and added on after construction is complete.

The modular mobility ramps design makes this system easily expandable because all of the sections are completely interchangeable. They can be moved and re-configured by adding 45, 90 and 180 degree turns depending on your accessibility needs. They are easy to install and remove and can store in a very small space.

Modular mobility ramps are not only designed to address the accessibility needs of the residential market. If you own a business these ramps can bring your business into ADA compliance. They can be used inside or outside. Do not risk a lawsuit by not being up to Federal ADA Standards.

Mobility ramps come in all kinds of shapes and sizes. Each has it’s own properties and distinct functions. From the huge concrete ramps you see in front of buildings to the small threshold ramps that allow you to pass through doorways safely, all are mobility ramps. The definition of a ramp is: An inclined surface that connects two levels. That’s what mobility ramps do. To what extent depends on the ramp you choose. Lets look at the different types available.

Permanent Mobility Ramps – Permanent mobility ramps are installed and are not intended to be moved. Concrete is the material of choice here. It is extremely durable but expensive. If this is the ramp you choose, check whether or not you will need a building permit. Some cities may require you to obtain a permit in order to verify the ramp conforms to your local building codes.

Portable Mobility Ramps – There are many kinds of portable mobility ramps that are especially useful. These ramps allow you to take your accessibility along with you where you need it. Portable mobility ramps are designed to be easy to carry and fold up for easy transporting.

Modular Mobility Ramps – Modular mobility ramps are semi-permanent ramps Built in sections they can conquer big rises in height and do it to ADA specifications. They are made of wood or aluminum. The aluminum ones can be moved, added on to, or re-configured as all the inter-locking sections are designed for that purpose.

Vehicle Mobility Ramps – Vehicle mobility ramps are the solution for people that want to take mobility with them. They are easy to install and stow away and can accommodate scooters and wheelchairs with different wheel configurations.

These are brief summaries. Each category has sub-categories with more detailed information. I’ve provided links to them for you throughout this article. You will need this information to make sure you end up with a product that is useful and safe. That is what this site is dedicated to. Good luck in your search!

Vehicle mobility ramps are the solution for people that want to take mobility on the road. They are easy to install and stow away and can accommodate scooters and wheelchairs with different wheel configurations. Vehicle mobility ramps are a low cost alternative to a lift system and offers the most economical solution for mobility device transportation. Most come standard with grip tape which provides excellent traction in all weather conditions and are easy to operate. Because of their all aluminum construction they are lightweight and durable. When shopping for vehicle mobility ramps there are some factors you must consider.

Who will be utilizing the ramp? Will it be you or a caregiver? This is a big factor in your decision. Vehicle mobility ramps come in many styles and configurations. (We will get to that in a moment.) Whether it will be you or a caregiver will determine which ramp you choose as far as how it is put away after you have finished using it.

Do you know what vehicle you have? If you don’t know what the make, model and year of your vehicle is , find out now. You will probably be asked this when it comes time to make your purchase. Also, know the make and model of your wheelchair or mobility scooter as well.

How long of a mobility ramp do you need? Many people are surprised to learn how long a mobility ramp needs to be. The recommended ratio for a mobility ramp is 1:12. That means for every inch of rise there should be 12 inches of length. The main thing to consider here is, will the wheelchair or mobility scooter be occupied or not? If the mobility device is unoccupied the ramp can be much steeper than if you were riding or being pushed up the ramp. Remember to think of your caregiver if you have one. Try our new mobility ramp calculator!

What weight specifications do you need? Be sure to check the weight specifications of the ramp to make sure that it will safely support how you intend to use it. Too often, people buy inexpensive wheelchair ramps, only to find out that they were designed for unoccupied wheelchairs.

Where will you be accessing the vehicle? There are three types of vehicle mobility ramps.

Side Door Van Ramps – Side door van ramps are an excellent solution if you are seeking a ramp that can fold and store vertically inside the vehicle when the ramp is not being used. Side door van ramps fold into quarters leaving half of the door opening accessible when in the upright position.

Rear Door Ramps – Rear door ramps are usually three section manually operated aluminum ramps that are dependable and inexpensive. Operation is simple when spring assisted making these ramps easily operated by a single individual.

Hitch Mount Ramps – Hitch mount ramps attach to the rear of vehicles equipped with a rear hatch or barn-style doors, such as SUVs and minivans. Convenient folding, low-profile design makes these ramps perfect for maximizing cargo space. These are the easiest ramps to install. Since these ramps usually cover up the license plate on most vehicles a place to re-mount the license plate on the back of the ramp is provided.

Usually these ramps are a snap to install requiring as little as two bolts! Not only are they lightweight and easy to handle but they are also very strong with a weight capacity of 600 pounds.