Considering adding a mobility ramp to an existing structure? It may be a something you can do yourself. With some simple carpentry skills you can build a safe, sturdy ramp that will last for years to come. Mobility ramps allow people with disabilities to access places they otherwise could not access. The ADA (Americans with Disability Act) has set forth guidelines that standardize the building of mobility ramps thus making them safe for those that use wheelchairs, scooters or walkers. Poorly constructed mobility ramps create a hazard that could result in a lawsuit.
Lets get started.
The first thing to consider is how much rise are you trying to traverse. Measure from the ground up to the surface you are trying to get to. The ADA recommends that the slope of a ramp should have a slope of at least 1:12. 12 feet of ramp for every 1 foot of rise. For our purposes of discussion we will use a rise of 3 feet. At a slope of 12:1, our ramp must be 36 feet long. This is not practical because the ADA also states that most people cannot manage a slope of 1:12 for more than 30 feet. They recommend a slope of 1:16 to 1:20. Our ramp will have a slope of 1:16 but you should use the least amount of slope you have room for. Lets break it into sections. If we have two sections rising 1 1/2 feet running parallel to the front of our structure it will look better and take up less space. Now our ramps will only need to be 24 feet long (Total rise [3 feet] X Amount of slope [16] ÷ Number of sections [2] ). There will be a landing at the top and bottom of our ramps and at the 180 degree turn. If 24 feet is too long for your application consider 2 turns(3 sections) at 16 feet each with a rise of 1 foot. The width of each ramp should be 36 inches minimum with no obstructions per the ADA. Try our new mobility ramp calculator!
Now that we have a general design in mind and some dimensions to go along with it, we will take a look at materials. Mobility ramps can be constructed wood, steel, concrete or aluminum. Lets consider the pros and cons of each.
Aluminum:
Pros – Strong, lightweight, and is resistant to corrosion.
Cons – Flexes and bends depending on the thickness, expensive.
If you want a ramp constructed out of aluminum, think about purchasing one of the many fine kits that are available. The floors are extruded to have a non-slip surface already on them. They bolt together easily and can be re-configured or added on to with little fuss. Since the companies that sell these kits buy their aluminum in bulk, you can probably buy an aluminum ramp cheaper than you can build one.
Concrete:
Pros – Strong, permanent and non-slip if the surface is scored or brushed.
Cons – Expensive, need the proper skills.
Galvanized Steel:
Pros – Strong, easy to work with.
Cons – Will eventually rust, heavy.
Wood:
It’s hard to think of wood in terms of pros and cons. The cost, durability and maintenance is directly related to type of wood you select and how it is weather-proofed. Pressure treated lumber is highly recommended. It lasts a long time but it is more expensive. The same goes for hardwoods. The more you spend now, the less maintenance you will do later. Whatever wood you choose there are some things you will need to consider.
Wood must be protected with a sealer, varnish or stain to prevent rotting and warping even where surfaces touch. You may need to apply some non-slip grip tape, to provide traction on the walking surface. Boards must be placed close enough together to prevent unwanted bumps but also be spaced far enough apart to allow water to drain off the surfaces. Boards on the walking surface should be perpendicular to the direction of travel. Plywood is likely to warp and separate and it is slippery. It’s cheaper, but you will be replacing it in no time at all. Wooden handrails must be kept in splinter free condition and tend to bow over time. Don’t use nails. Nails work their way back out causing boards to loosen. Nails that are sticking up are a tripping hazard as well. Long wood screws with a little wood glue on the threads will stay in better. Use 2 by 6’s for the frame and joists. Posts should be 4 by 4’s with 2 by 4’s as the cross-members in a crisscross manner, to prevent side to side movement. A pad made out of pressure treated lumber to go between the post and the ground will help keep things dry. Posts that are to be placed into the ground should be rated as such.
Galvanized steel pipe is my choice for handrails especially when painted to keep from rusting. They must have 1 1/2 inches or more of clearance around them and they cannot rotate in their fittings. The top of the gripping surface should be 34 to 38 inches above and parallel the ramps surface.
After figuring up all the costs you will probably find that building a wooden ramp yourself is the cheapest way to go. Just remember that you must be willing and have the ability to maintain it or it will be money down the drain.
Build your mobility ramp in sections. There must be a level landing at the top and bottom of each run. The landing must be at least as wide as the ramp run leading to it and at least 60 inches long. Where the ramp changes directions, the landing must be a minimum of 60 inches by 60 inches. Start at the top. Put in the posts and cross-members and secure the top landing to them using bolts and the existing surface. How you do this will depend on what the surface you’re connecting to is constructed of. Next, put in the posts and cross-members for the run between the top landing and the middle landing. Remember to check your slope! Now, do the same for your middle landing and then to the ground. Make sure there is a smooth transition where the ramps and landings meet. Otherwise, someone could tip over forwards or backwards depending on which direction they are traveling. This is especially true where the ramp meets the ground surface. At this point of the ramp I would install a small ramp with a slope of 1:20 or greater.
I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to familiarize yourself with ADA guidelines. Read them and know them before getting started on your project. A few moments of your time now will save many headaches down the road.
Also, check with your local building code office to make sure that you comply with any guidelines they have as well. If you need a building permit, you’ll need to know that upfront. To help you find who you need to talk to, click here.
The intent of this article is not to be a “How To” document. The amount of material needed to be stated is beyond the scope of this article. It is intended to give you some idea of what is involved in such a project. After all, this website is dedicated to helping you make an informed decision about mobility ramps. Now that you have some idea of how to build your own ramp and what it entails, I’m going to give you a little more information to digest. As I was researching this article, I ran across this video (below). It is an excerpt from a DVD put out by “The Minnesota Ramp Project”. In this video, a building inspector mentions a manual published by “The Minnesota Ramp Project”. I have attached a link to the web version of this manual here. On their website they also offer the up to date version of this manual and the DVD for sale. The manual leads you through the entire process, from design, permits, and materials through construction and installation. It is great for family and friends, experienced builders, and community service groups. On the DVD, see important design and safety information, hear first-person accounts from ramp users, obtain perspectives from building officials, and get many helpful construction tips. The manual sells for $15 and the DVD sells for $20.Their website also has many articles and information on how you may get some help with funding. Enjoy the video!
