When visiting family, friends and neighbors do you struggle with the fact that their homes aren’t easily accessible? Wouldn’t it be nice if they were? Well they can be. There is a solution. Portable mobility ramps allow you to take your mobility with you. Portable mobility ramps fold, telescope and roll up small enough to fit in your vehicle. Their compact, lightweight design makes it easy to be on the go.
They come in different configurations to handle different jobs so the first thing you must do is to decide what obstacles you’re most likely to encounter. Is it a threshold, a small step or curb, multiple steps? Since these ramps are portable they have their limitations as to how long they can be. The most important piece of information you need to know is how much of a rise are you likely to face? Remember, for every inch of rise you will want a foot of ramp length. This gives us a 1:12 slope.
It also depends on what type of mobility device you use. If you are using a manual wheelchair, you probably will want to stick with the 1:12 slope or preferably less depending on you upper body strength. You can probably get away with a slope of 1:8, if you have someone pushing you to be sure you don’t tip backwards. This of course depends on how much you weigh and the size and condition of the person assisting you. If you use an electric wheelchair or scooter then a slope of 1:8 should be fine. I recommend you stay under a slope of 1:8 and as always, you should use the longest ramp you have room for.
Below is a chart to help you choose what length of ramp you will need. The column on the left shows the rise in inches. The row on the bottom shows the length of the ramp. Lets say that you predict that you shouldn’t need to go more than 6 inches in rise. Starting with the 6 on the left, go across until you come upon a green cell. Following that cell downwards you see that you need a 6 foot ramp to achieve the 1:12 slope. Also notice the yellow cells. With a 6 foot ramp you could go as high as 9 inches with some assistance.
“Well,” you say, “I go to my son’s house and there is only enough room for a 4 foot ramp.” If that is the case then you can easily bridge a 4 inch rise no problem and 6 inches with some help. It’s just like a stop light. Green is good, yellow means get some help, and red means consider something else. This is just a guide to help you get an idea of what size ramp will fit your needs. Use your common sense and good judgment. After all, you know what your abilities are. If you need another way to calculate all of this, you can check out our new mobility ramp calculator!
Now that you have a ramp length in mind let’s look at the different kinds of portable mobility ramps. There are many styles to choose from based on your needs.
Theshold Mobility Ramps – These ramps are for what the name implies, crossing thresholds! They are purchased based on a given rise (between 1/4 inch to 6 inches) and have the slope built in to them. These are the least expensive of all the mobility ramps and can be made from a variety of materials. If the rise isn’t going to vary these are ideal.
Suitcase Mobility Ramps – These ramps are single fold ramps that fold down the middle. They have a handle on the side so that they can be carried like a suitcase. Weight capacity is between 600 and 800 pounds and they weigh only 10 to 20 pounds depending on the model. Lengths are between 2 feet and 6 feet.
Multi-fold Mobility Ramps – These ramps are excellent for getting your mobility device in and out of vans or SUVs. They can also be used to span a series of steps. Lengths are between 5 feet and 10 feet. Weight capacity is usually 800 pounds and they weigh 40 to 70 pounds depending on the length. These ramps fold into quarters.
Telescoping Mobility Ramps
Roll-up Mobility Ramps – These ramps are also in the two track design and roll up for easy carrying. A carrying strap or case usually comes with these ramps. They too are lightweight and compact yet are incredibly strong. Some have a weight capacity of 2000 pounds! You can use them to get in your vehicle and then at your destination. The track lengths can be 3 to 13 feet long.
The folding ramps are usually are 29 to 30 inches wide. Make sure that is wide enough for your mobility device. The telescoping and roll-up mobility ramps are two-track design so you set the width. They all come with non-slip surfaces either in the form of grip-tape or extruded into the ramp’s surface. Be sure to check out the weight capacities on any ramp you are considering. They are not all the same.
Well there you have it! I hope you are now armed with the knowledge you need to make an informed decision about what portable mobility ramps are for you. Happy trails!
Considering adding a mobility ramp to an existing structure? It may be a something you can do yourself. With some simple carpentry skills you can build a safe, sturdy ramp that will last for years to come. Mobility ramps allow people with disabilities to access places they otherwise could not access. The ADA (Americans with Disability Act) has set forth guidelines that standardize the building of mobility ramps thus making them safe for those that use wheelchairs, scooters or walkers. Poorly constructed mobility ramps create a hazard that could result in a lawsuit.
Lets get started.
The first thing to consider is how much rise are you trying to traverse. Measure from the ground up to the surface you are trying to get to. The ADA recommends that the slope of a ramp should have a slope of at least 1:12. 12 feet of ramp for every 1 foot of rise. For our purposes of discussion we will use a rise of 3 feet. At a slope of 12:1, our ramp must be 36 feet long. This is not practical because the ADA also states that most people cannot manage a slope of 1:12 for more than 30 feet. They recommend a slope of 1:16 to 1:20. Our ramp will have a slope of 1:16 but you should use the least amount of slope you have room for. Lets break it into sections. If we have two sections rising 1 1/2 feet running parallel to the front of our structure it will look better and take up less space. Now our ramps will only need to be 24 feet long (Total rise [3 feet] X Amount of slope [16] ÷ Number of sections [2] ). There will be a landing at the top and bottom of our ramps and at the 180 degree turn. If 24 feet is too long for your application consider 2 turns(3 sections) at 16 feet each with a rise of 1 foot. The width of each ramp should be 36 inches minimum with no obstructions per the ADA. Try our new mobility ramp calculator!
Now that we have a general design in mind and some dimensions to go along with it, we will take a look at materials. Mobility ramps can be constructed wood, steel, concrete or aluminum. Lets consider the pros and cons of each.
Aluminum:
Pros – Strong, lightweight, and is resistant to corrosion.
Cons – Flexes and bends depending on the thickness, expensive.
If you want a ramp constructed out of aluminum, think about purchasing one of the many fine kits that are available. The floors are extruded to have a non-slip surface already on them. They bolt together easily and can be re-configured or added on to with little fuss. Since the companies that sell these kits buy their aluminum in bulk, you can probably buy an aluminum ramp cheaper than you can build one.
Concrete:
Pros – Strong, permanent and non-slip if the surface is scored or brushed.
Cons – Expensive, need the proper skills.
Galvanized Steel:
Pros – Strong, easy to work with.
Cons – Will eventually rust, heavy.
Wood:
It’s hard to think of wood in terms of pros and cons. The cost, durability and maintenance is directly related to type of wood you select and how it is weather-proofed. Pressure treated lumber is highly recommended. It lasts a long time but it is more expensive. The same goes for hardwoods. The more you spend now, the less maintenance you will do later. Whatever wood you choose there are some things you will need to consider.
Wood must be protected with a sealer, varnish or stain to prevent rotting and warping even where surfaces touch. You may need to apply some non-slip grip tape, to provide traction on the walking surface. Boards must be placed close enough together to prevent unwanted bumps but also be spaced far enough apart to allow water to drain off the surfaces. Boards on the walking surface should be perpendicular to the direction of travel. Plywood is likely to warp and separate and it is slippery. It’s cheaper, but you will be replacing it in no time at all. Wooden handrails must be kept in splinter free condition and tend to bow over time. Don’t use nails. Nails work their way back out causing boards to loosen. Nails that are sticking up are a tripping hazard as well. Long wood screws with a little wood glue on the threads will stay in better. Use 2 by 6’s for the frame and joists. Posts should be 4 by 4’s with 2 by 4’s as the cross-members in a crisscross manner, to prevent side to side movement. A pad made out of pressure treated lumber to go between the post and the ground will help keep things dry. Posts that are to be placed into the ground should be rated as such.
Galvanized steel pipe is my choice for handrails especially when painted to keep from rusting. They must have 1 1/2 inches or more of clearance around them and they cannot rotate in their fittings. The top of the gripping surface should be 34 to 38 inches above and parallel the ramps surface.
After figuring up all the costs you will probably find that building a wooden ramp yourself is the cheapest way to go. Just remember that you must be willing and have the ability to maintain it or it will be money down the drain.
Build your mobility ramp in sections. There must be a level landing at the top and bottom of each run. The landing must be at least as wide as the ramp run leading to it and at least 60 inches long. Where the ramp changes directions, the landing must be a minimum of 60 inches by 60 inches. Start at the top. Put in the posts and cross-members and secure the top landing to them using bolts and the existing surface. How you do this will depend on what the surface you’re connecting to is constructed of. Next, put in the posts and cross-members for the run between the top landing and the middle landing. Remember to check your slope! Now, do the same for your middle landing and then to the ground. Make sure there is a smooth transition where the ramps and landings meet. Otherwise, someone could tip over forwards or backwards depending on which direction they are traveling. This is especially true where the ramp meets the ground surface. At this point of the ramp I would install a small ramp with a slope of 1:20 or greater.
I can’t emphasize enough how important it is to familiarize yourself with ADA guidelines. Read them and know them before getting started on your project. A few moments of your time now will save many headaches down the road.
Also, check with your local building code office to make sure that you comply with any guidelines they have as well. If you need a building permit, you’ll need to know that upfront. To help you find who you need to talk to, click here.
The intent of this article is not to be a “How To” document. The amount of material needed to be stated is beyond the scope of this article. It is intended to give you some idea of what is involved in such a project. After all, this website is dedicated to helping you make an informed decision about mobility ramps. Now that you have some idea of how to build your own ramp and what it entails, I’m going to give you a little more information to digest. As I was researching this article, I ran across this video (below). It is an excerpt from a DVD put out by “The Minnesota Ramp Project”. In this video, a building inspector mentions a manual published by “The Minnesota Ramp Project”. I have attached a link to the web version of this manual here. On their website they also offer the up to date version of this manual and the DVD for sale. The manual leads you through the entire process, from design, permits, and materials through construction and installation. It is great for family and friends, experienced builders, and community service groups. On the DVD, see important design and safety information, hear first-person accounts from ramp users, obtain perspectives from building officials, and get many helpful construction tips. The manual sells for $15 and the DVD sells for $20.Their website also has many articles and information on how you may get some help with funding. Enjoy the video!
As we grow older, mobility starts to become a thing of the past. Whether its due to the aging process or because of injuries or illnesses we’ve sustained over the course of our lives, we just don’t get around the way we used to. Now it sounds like I’m talking just about the elderly here, I’m not. Disability is something that happens to young and old alike and to varying degrees. The reasons why we no longer have the mobility we used to are irrelevant. The challenge has been handed to us and we must do something about it in order to live our lives with as little assistance as possible. There are some simple and inexpensive things you can do (or have someone do for you) to make life easier and safer.
1) One of the easiest things you can do is to have someone move the things you need the most throughout the day down lower. Make a list. Note the things you have trouble getting to on a daily basis and create a new space for them. Get a quality grabbing device for the things that are harder to reach.
2) Install better lighting. Replacing low wattage light bulbs with brighter more efficient fluorescent bulbs can bring things into view. Those who use canes or walkers especially need to be able to see any obstacles that are in their way. If there are not enough fixtures or lamps to sufficiently light pathways, install them. They are a inexpensive way to keep accidents from happening.
3) If you use a walker, there are some accessories you can purchase to help keep your hands where they should be, on the grips. Trays for meals, clip-on cup holders and item bags that hang from the crossbar, let you take things with you without dropping them. If something does get dropped, use that gripping device I spoke of earlier. Bending down cannot only be painful, but could cause you to lose your balance.
4) Get a medical alert button. Should something happen, chances are you will need some assistance immediately. You may not be able to get to a phone to call for help. These devices are used for all kinds of emergencies. With a simple press of a button you can summon police, firemen or paramedics. Peace of mind is a wonderful thing to have.
5) Replace the doorknobs in your home with lever type handles. Round doorknobs require you to grip and twist the knob in order to open the door. If that process is difficult or painful for you then lever type handles will be much easier. Simply place your hand on the lever and pull down. Usually just the weight of your hand is enough to activate these devices.
6) Pulling a door open is no easy task when you are using a mobility device. Unless you can get off to the side of the door, you will have to get out of its way. Pushing it open is much easier. Install hinges that swing both ways and keep the areas on both sides of the door clear of obstructions. They can be spring loaded to close the door behind you and when pushed all the way open, stay open. If choose to use these hinges make sure the spring tension is not so strong as to try to push you backwards or to cause you to lose your balance. Also, if you want the door to open both ways some modifications may be necessary to the door jamb to allow this.
7) Install a higher toilet or get an elevated seat. Even if you are temporarily disabled, say from having surgery, you will really appreciate the elevated seat. Sitting down is one thing, getting back up is a another! These seats straddle over the toilet and are adjustable in height. They are easily moved out of the way for family members that don’t require them.
8) Speaking of seats, get one for the shower too. The shower seat sits in your shower or tub and allows you to sit instead of standing. They too are adjustable in height and in conjunction with a hand-held shower head makes personal hygiene a lot easier and safer.
9) A hand-held faucet for the kitchen allows you to fill things up without holding them over or setting them in the sink. Say for instance you need a pitcher of water, it’s easier to fill it up while it’s on the counter than to lift it out of the sink. They also make cleaning the sink or rinsing dishes much easier. These faucets come in different styles and lengths and some have filters built in.
10) Grab bars can be installed just about anywhere. In the bath or shower, by the toilet, (remember that getting up part?) or by your bed for getting in and out of it. Any place you need to get up or down, in or out, or just to have something to hold on to so you can steady yourself, grab bars are the ticket. Make sure they are installed properly. Improper mounting can cause accidents. These devices are meant to be pulled on sometimes with a lot of force. They will not do you any good if they pull out of the surface they are mounted to.
11) If you use a wheelchair or scooter, mobility ramps are a big help. There are many kinds to choose from based on what your needs are. Most are made of aluminum but you can build your own out of wood. If you want to build your own, they need to have the right slope and smooth transitions. Use the guidelines set forth by the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act). If you want to view this document, click here. Remember that wooden ramps require more maintenance to keep them in a safe working condition. If you have the time and ability to maintain them they are one way to cut costs.
12) Chair lifts assist you in getting out of a chair. Some are cushions that can be used with a variety of chairs and others are chairs that have the lift built-in. These come in a multitude of designs, styles and prices. Shop around to make sure you get the one that best meets your needs.
These are just some of the things you can do to make your home easier and safer to live in. There are many more. Widen doorways to at least 36 inches to allow wheelchairs to pass through. Lower counter tops and cabinets. Install zero threshold tubs and showers. Install stair-lifts or elevators in homes with more than one story. Enlarging bathrooms to allow you to turn your wheelchair around. Install bathroom sinks that have room for a wheelchair to fit under. These things will cost more money and require someone who is good at remodeling, preferably a licensed contractor.
If you need to have these things done there is help. Grants are available if you know where to look. Do your research but be careful! There are many scams as well. If you purchase something to help you in this endeavor, use a pre-paid debit card. If something cost $10, get a card with $10 on it. Some companies will sell things ridiculously cheap and then start charging you a monthly membership fee without you even knowing it. If you want to pay the membership fee, simply put more money on the card every month. That way, when you want to cancel it, it will be canceled.
